Test cycling from Alta to Kautokeino in June 2022
Photo: The view between Karkia and Suolovuoma
My planned one-day lecture trip to Tromsø surprisingly evolved to a proper tour when I first got an invitation to the Sodankylä Film Festival and then I heard that STIL project was looking for test cyclists between Alta and Kautokeino. Of course I had to seize the opportunity as I was already “nearby.” I started my test cycling on this old postal route on one June afternoon on my loyal “steed,” an electric touring bike. The journey starts on a paved country road, but about 20 km from Alta, from Karkia Inn, begins a section marked as a hiking trail, and there are almost no cars on the track. This relatively good gravel road between Karkia and Suolovuoma is the best part of the route.
It travelled about twenty kilometers along the top of this long line of fells, and visibility was good in every direction. The journey was going really slow, because I had to stop to take pictures or just look around all the time. I could even have set up a snowman as there was still snow on the side of the road in some places and in one place on the road too. The atmosphere was surreal: absolutely quiet and a really open scenery.
Photo: Midsummer week's "snow surprise"
I took a room about 50 km from Alta in Suolovuoma, at the old post route guesthouse where they still had an old mail store in the cafe. This and Karkia Inn have been in operation on this route since the late 18th century.
Photo: Mailbox in Suolovuopmi fjellstue
When leaving Suolovuoma, it was first fairly flat, but the riding gradually became harder because the road is more uneven and rocky than the more northerly section. At one point there is no bridge, and the river had to be crossed wading. At the Stuoroaivi resting place, I made coffee in a beautiful scenery.
Photo: The resting place in Stuoroaivi
The whole journey from there was quite wet and muddy, because streams or wetlands stretched all the way to the expedition trail in some places. This is outside of my comfort zone, but I'm sure it's pretty nice for mountain biking oriented people. About 15 km before Kautokeino I stayed overnight at the side of the route and hung my hammock between a couple of poor little birches. The birches bent fairly and my bottom finally caught the ground, but it was great to watch the adventure of the sun on the skyline as the evening progressed and the reflection of its light from a couple of little ponds. The next day I only had a short trip to Kautokeino to the end of the test route. From there, I continued on to the nearest train station in Kolari for the journey home.
Photo: A crossing without a bridge offered a foot bath
The route had unusually fine scenery, and the history of the route was of interest. There was information about that on the boards along the route, and old trail sign arrows and other markings were displayed on the way. I could well imagine ancient walkers along this route already used in the Stone Age. The route may be recommended, but it may be wiser to traverse it from south to north, then the scenery will improve as the journey progresses. In particular, the trip between the two guesthouses on the route is worth experiencing and worth considering also as a round-trip trip. Thanks to STIL for the trip tip!
-The map by Marja Uusitalo-
Author: Kristiina Lång
email: kristiina.lang@luke.fi
photos: Kristiina Lång
Slow travel in northern rural landscapes
-
Routes for leisure biking -project
© 2022 STIL Cycling North
